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Series · 3 parts

How a car becomes a wall piece

Three parts, one plaque: the frame, the forty-hour print and the finish. Scroll, and watch it come together.

Part 1 of 3

Start with the frame

Before a single layer is printed, we decide what will hold it: panel, frame, plate — and why the size comes first.

1 October 2026 · 4 min read

It sounds backwards, but every plaque starts with the frame. The frame fixes the outer dimensions, the outer dimensions fix the scale of the relief, and the scale decides what the printer can still resolve: a 50 × 40 panel gives a grille strut of about a millimetre; go smaller and the lattice turns to mush.

The panel

The backing is 12 mm MDF, sealed on both faces and finished in a warm off-white with a hint of texture, so the white relief doesn't float in a void. We tried pure white: under a lamp it reads as plastic. Off-white reads as plaster, and the shadows of the relief get somewhere to land.

The frame

The frame is a 20 mm deep box profile in matte black. Deep enough to cast a shadow across the panel edge, slim enough to stay out of the way. Corners are mitred, glued and pinned — never stapled — and the back carries a French cleat, so the plaque hangs flush and level with one screw.

  • One size: 50 × 40 cm — desk wall, above a sideboard, garage office.
  • Classic: the pure matte relief, lit by whatever light the room has.
  • Headlights on: LEDs behind the printed lenses, so the car looks switched on at night.

The plate

Below the relief sits the spec plate: black acrylic, laser-engraved, the exact generation, the engine, power, weight and a short line about the car. It is the one part we always finish before printing begins, because it tells us what the relief has to live up to.

The frame is not packaging. It is half of the object.

With the frame on the bench and the plate engraved, we know the exact window the relief has to fill. Now the printer can start.

Part 2 of 3

Forty hours of layers

The relief is the real car, cut and compressed. How we model it, slice it and keep a two-day print from failing at hour thirty-eight.

3 October 2026 · 5 min read

The relief isn't a sculpture of the car — it is the car. We start with a full 3D model of the exact generation, align it against press photos until panel gaps match, then cut it one metre behind the bumper and compress what's left to about a third of its depth. The nose keeps its shape; the hood foreshortens, like a photograph turned solid.

Slicing for a relief

A bas-relief is a strange print. The hood is nearly horizontal, the grille is a lattice of millimetre struts, the headlights are deep pockets. We slice at 0.1 mm with adaptive layer height, orient the part so layer lines run along the body creases, and print the grille as a separate insert so no support ever touches the honeycomb.

Hour one to hour forty

Printing takes 40 to 60 hours depending on the car. Flat panels are quick; compound curves are not — a G-Class is a day faster than a 992. The printer sits in an enclosure held at a steady 45 °C, because a draft at hour thirty-eight is how a two-day print turns into a warped one.

  • Layer height: 0.1 mm, adaptive down to 0.06 on the headlights.
  • Walls: four perimeters — the relief gets sanded, so it needs the material.
  • Watched: a camera and a timelapse, checked every two hours.
If the first layer is right, the next two thousand usually are.

When the bed cools, the part lifts off on its own. What comes up is matte white, faintly lined, and already unmistakably the car. Which is exactly the problem — it still looks printed.

Part 3 of 3

Paint, or the honesty of white

Sanding, priming, and the decision between a white relief and the car's own colour. Then the frame comes back, and it's done.

6 October 2026 · 4 min read

Straight off the printer, a relief looks printed. Three grits of sandpaper, four hours by hand, and it stops. We go 240, 400, 800, following the body lines, never across them, until the layer lines vanish under a fingertip before they vanish under a lamp.

Primer and the white finish

Two thin coats of filler primer, a day apart, then a final sanding at 1000. The standard finish is a matte warm white: it shows every crease and lets the shadows do the work. Under daylight it reads as plaster; under a lamp, as stone.

The colour option

Some cars need their colour. For those, the relief gets a base coat in the factory shade — Nardo, Daytona, Guards Red — and a satin clear. Lights and grille are masked and painted separately, chrome is brushed in with a fine tip. It adds four days and it is the only time we worry about the weather.

  • Masked: headlights, grille, badges, number plate.
  • Painted: body, mirrors, bumper inserts.
  • Hand-finished: chrome rings, light internals, tyre sidewalls.

Back into the frame

The relief is bonded to the panel with a two-part adhesive and clamped overnight. The plate goes on, the frame goes around it, and the whole thing stands under a 3000 K lamp for a last look from one metre away.

If you can see a layer line from one metre, we start again.

Photos, box, label. From the first screw in the frame to the courier it's about ten days. Then it's your wall's problem.

Series

That's the whole story.

Three parts, forty hours and one frame. Yours starts with a brand and a model.

Order yours